The untouched region? The hinterlands? The unknown country? Western and southwestern Virginia, which encompasses everything from the artsy small town atmosphere of Abingdon to the spacious and quasi-urban atmosphere of Roanoke to college town spots like Lexington and Blacksburg, is often overlooked by the more concentrated activity in Northern, Central and Eastern Va. But this region has unmatched scenery and hiking opportunities, occasional night life and college town flourishes, and interesting points of departure.
With this area of Virginia, arguably one of the most beautiful places in America, getting there is half the fun. From points east, take the SKYLINE DRIVE, easily one of the most beautiful motorcar routes in existence-- overlooking the largely untouched vistas of the miraculous Shenandoah Valley. The drive can be entered at four points-- on U.S. 340 at Front Royal; on U.S. 211 between Luray and Sperryville; on U.S. 33 between Stanardsville and Elkton; and at the junction of Interstate 64 and U.S. 250 between Charlottesville and Waynesboro. Extending 470 miles from the southern end of Skyline Drive is the equally stupendous BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY, where you can see man, village and farm interacting with the rolling, burrowing green hills and chiseled rock. From Waynesboro to Roanoke, the Parkway sits upon a ridge. . . while the route from Roanoke into North Carolina gives you a more westward view into lolling ridges and overlooks.
We hope to give you an even more thorough and expanded lowdown on this region in the near future, including tourist and music information on Bristol (the birthplace of country music), Radford, Lexington, Lynchburg and Patsy Cline's hometown of Winchester. Your suggestions are always welcome.
Outdoors and About
This area of the state is ripe with hiking, camping and "roughing it" possibilities.
The Appalachian Trail runs along or near Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway from around Front Royal to just north of Roanoke.
Further south and west, the trail passes by MT. ROGERS, the highest point in Virginia at 5,729 feet. From Abingdon, the scenic and winding Route 58 East leads through Damascus, dubbed "The friendliest town on the (Appalachian) Trail," and up, up, up beside a rushing creek and past many hillsides dotted with Christmas tree farms to GRAYSON HIGHLANDS STATE PARK.
The park offers multiple trails (some connecting to the Appalachian) for hikers, mountain bikers and horseback riders, as well as camping and picnicking areas, over-night horse stables and a visitor center. From the park's Massie's Gap parking area, hikers can reach Mt. Rogers after four miles of rocky and astonishingly open terrain roamed by wild ponies imported from Assateague.
Another option in the same area is to hike, bicycle or horseback ride the VIRGINIA CREEPER, a 34-mile stretch from Abingdon to the North Carolina border that was converted from an old railroad bed. The trail, originally an Indian footpath that was later used by European pioneers and Daniel Boone, connects Abingdon, Damascus and Whitetop Station in Virginia, and has entry points along the route. The Virginia-Carolina Railroad, built around 1900, carried lumber, iron ore, supplies and passengers. Its nickname, Virginia Creeper, came from the early steam engines that struggled to climb the steep grades along its route. The railroad operated until 1977, when economic factors caused its demise.
(For travelers who don't have bicycles, they can be rented at places in both Abingdon and Damascus. Camping is allowed off the trail.)
From the Mt. Rogers area, the Appalachian Trail heads north through the Jefferson National Forest and around the idyllic BURKE'S GARDEN, a crater-like community of about 260 people east of Tazewell that is completely encircled in mountains. It has been called "God's thumbprint," and there could hardly be a more picturesque setting, with rugged mountains, lush green fields, fishing streams and farmhouses all in close proximity. For drivers traveling nearby, Burke's Garden is a rewarding detour.
Roanoke and Salem
Roanoke's existence can be traced to a single railroad company, the Norfolk and Southern, and the city itself, incorporated in 1882, manages to contain a weird mixture of the urban and the rural. I'm not sure the residents would admit it today, but the place used to be called "Big Lick."
For just sheer hanging-out in Roanoke, you should head on down to the city's CENTER IN THE SQUARE, a renovated arts and sciences gathering place situated in the McGuire Building, the first concrete and steel structure to be built in the City (in 1914). The Center, off of I-581 downtown at 1 Market Square, houses the ROANOKE VALLEY SCIENCE MUSEUM and HOPKINS PLANETARIUM, as well as the MILL MOUNTAIN THEATRE and the ROANOKE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS. The building is strategically set in the heart of the city's historic FARMER'S MARKET section, in their renovated downtown area.
After roaming the McGuire Building for a spell, grab some java from MILL MOUNTAIN COFFEE on Market Square and then choose one of many culinary options in the walk-around historic area, from cheap and good pizza to exotic, pricier stuff. It's a day in Roanoke!!
Roanoke Clubs & music venues
GHOST OF HOLLYWOOD (324 Salem Ave.; 540-982-8979. Concert line 540-345-6335) Alternative, punk and all kinds of sounds at the former Iroquois club. Mostly on the hard rock and hard-edged side of things.
COFFEE POT (2902 Brambleton Ave.; 540-774-8256) Presents a variety of sounds most nights a week.
THE TOP FLOOR (32 E. Campbell St.; 540-342-4680) Miss Hawaiian Tropic contests as well as occasional live music and DJ functions.
3RD STREET COFFEEHOUSE (in the Trinity Methodist Church basement at 3rd & Mountain) Contemporary folk and blues in the church. Shows most Friday nights.
LOWELL'S (2328 Melrose NW; 540-344-4884) Weekends hop with R & B, lite Jazz and blues offerings.
BELLY OF THE BEAST / WIT'S END (at "Billy's Barns," Rt. 419 / 311 at Hanging Rock; 888-347-5519) New roadhouse that will feature large scale band appearances as well as more intimate coffeehouse fare.
Music stores / Instrument Shops / recording studios of note
RECORD EXCHANGE (Lakeside Plaza-- 145 Electric Rd. in Salem 540-986-0086 / at Cave Spring Corners-- 3449 Brambleton in Roanoke. 540-989-8700) The two Roanoke-area locations of the Virginia-N.C.-based Record Exchange chain. See Blacksburg.
LEED'S MUSIC CENTER (4600 Brambleton; 540--774-5365) Full-line music store, with rentals and repairs offered.
STAGE SOUND (103 8th St. SE; 540--342-2040) Billed as the region's biggest audio rental outlet, they also do tons of repairs.
FRET MILL MUSIC (on Roanoke's City Market; 540-344-3604) New and used guitars and amps and accessories. Buy-sell-trade. www.fretmill.com
SEYMOUR WEST PIANO SHOP (Rt. 220 S. near Clearbrook Elementary; 540-774-1020) Pianos, Piano servicing, and more pianos. This place does pianos.
FLAT PRESS FIVE (12 E. Main in Salem, Va.; 540-389-8427) Professional and demo recording studio. http//www.FlatS.com
Roanoke-area museums
SCIENCE MUSEUM OF WESTERN VIRGINIA ("Mindplay until August; 540-342-5710) Highly recommended place for "kids of all ages." In the Center in the Square.
VIRGINIA MUSEUM OF TRANSPORTATION (An exhibit on "Coal," believe it or not, thru June. Off of Brambleton Ave. 540-342-5670)
ART MUSEUM OF WESTERN VIRGINIA (Judith Godwin and "Toys in Art" thru June; 540-324-5760)
Places to Eat in Roanoke / Salem
CHICO & HENRY'S (at Roanoke's Farmer's Market section) Good, affordable pizza and generous pasta portions at this hangout eatery that boasts some interesting rock 'n' roll memorabilia on the walls, as well as dueling Chuck Robb and Tai Collins autographed photos.
NEW YORK DELI (2802 Williamson Rd.; 703-366-0935) A longtime Roanoke staple. Fast, inexpensive delicatessen fare that's a favorite with bustling locals.
COUNTRY PRIDE (Exit 150-A off of I-81, US 220 at US 11; 540-992-3100) The budget traveler choice for the Western Va. experience-- a truck stop with all-you-can-eat soup and salad bar options. Bon appetite!
SUNNYBROOK INN (7342 Plantation Rd.; 540-366-4555) Renovated dairy farm turned into a homey little diner. Country-cooking at an affordable price.
THE LIBRARY (3117 Franklin Rd SW; 540-985-0811) We've heard this expensive eatery, housed in a book-laden literary milieu, described more than once as one of the best eating experiences in all of Virginia. Not that we could ever afford it but, if you've got the bucks to blow on an exquisite French meal, this is the critic's choice.
REMINGTONS (in the Marriott-Roanoke Airport; 540-563-9300) Another relatively expensive restaurant that we keep reading good things about, Remingtons' specialty is steak and prime rib. Not quite as pricey as the Library, apparently, but the menu is filled with excellently prepared continental cuisine.
Abingdon
One of the oldest towns in Virginia, Abingdon is the heart of Washington County, and has an interesting, quasi-artsy atmosphere that runs counter to its smallish size and population, thanks to part to tourist attractions like the BARTER THEATRE and the MARTHA WASHINGTON INN. It's also surrounded by gorgeous countryside and dotted with unspoiled history and scenery. As one writer put it about Abingdon's outskirts, "the surrounding countryside is as exciting as any in Virginia." Hiking and camping options are also plentiful here (see above).
What to do
BARTER THEATER (on Main Street in Downtown Abingdon; 1-800-368-3240) The second oldest performing arts facility in America is known as "The State Theatre." The famous lighting fixtures were bought from N.Y.'s Empire Theatre and the whole place, originally built in 1831 as a church, was recently renovated. A must-stop when traveling in this area.
Places to eat in Abingdon
THE FIRST LADY'S TABLE (in the Martha Washington Inn; 540-628-3161) Yeah, we know the Martha Washington Inn is a prissy and price-y tourist attraction and it's way too expensive to stay there-- but it is one of the oldest homes from the Federalist period still standing. And if you've got $16 to blow on a Sunday morning, you should definitely try their adjoining restaurant's supercharged all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch buffet. Everything under the sun -- from delicious breakfast fare (such as Eggs Benedict, heart-shaped waffles with blueberry syrup and made-to-order omelets) to gourmet delights (smoked and moussed salmon, shrimp cocktail, stuffed flounder, etc.) plus soup, fresh bread, yummy biscuits and gravy, fruits, vegetables and cheeses, complimentary mimosas and Bloody Marys and delectable desserts. It's like a Shoney's Breakfast Bar times ten. Speaking of which, if you can't afford Martha's brunch, Abingdon also has a SHONEY'S (off the 2nd I-81 Abingdon exit).
THE TAVERN (222 E. Main Street; 540-628-1118) I've never heard the food or atmosphere of this quaint Abingdon staple-- a restored 1779 stagecoach stop-- described quite right. In the guidebooks, the food is described as American and the decor is often cited over the food. Myself, I found the menu to be a wacky mixture of German weiner snitzel-and-spetzel, steak and regional Virginia seafood offerings. . . way more delightful than the creaky, cramped, admittedly rustic surroundings. A bit expensive, maybe, but worth it. . . Make reservations and allow plenty of time if going to a show at Barter Theatre, because the restaurant is extremely busy from 6-8 p.m.
STARVING ARTIST CAFE (134 Wall Street; 540-628-8445) This spot, moderately priced, is said to be a "locals favorite." Featuring gourmet sandwiches, seafood fare and interesting entrees.
When doing the "Western Virginia" thing, stay at THE ALPINE MOTEL (Exit 19 off of I-81 at US 11; 540-628-3178) in Abingdon. Large rooms, good prices, friendly local owners and a pleasant place to relax. Call ahead because its 19 rooms fill up on weekends.
Blacksburg and Christiansburg
Near Virginia Polytechnic Institute, a.k.a. Virginia Tech (the largest and most populated university in Virginia), the Blacksburg area contains that odd combination of rural no-mans-land and bustling college town. This makes for a beautiful setting for learning. . . and, weirdly enough, it has an honest to goodness nightlife and music scene during the school year. We kid you not.
We'll be updating this entry in the near future to include more restaurants and student meeting places. . .
Clubs, music stores, instrument shops
BOOKS-STRINGS-&THINGS (214 Draper Rd.; 540-552-8633) One location of the longtime Western Virginia staple. Used books, new and used vinyl. . .
MAINSTREAM MUSIC (620 N. Main; 540-552-7748) Instrument shop that stocks everything except keyboards and keyboard-accessories.
MUSIC TECH CO. (2890 N. Franklin #G, Christianburg, Va.; 540-382-5096) No rentals, but this interesting instrument shop does have a 24-track digital studio on the premises. They do instrument and electronic repairs to boot.
RECORD EXCHANGE (302-A Main St.; 540-961-2500) Arguably the headquarters of the Blacksburg scene, this Record Exchange location features indie rock and vinyl. Give a shout out to the Squealer label's Butch Lazorchak, who works here!
TOP OF THE STAIRS (217 W. College St.; 540-953-2837) This long-running venue features mostly alternative sounds, and gives the Blacksburg scene a jump start.
Places to eat in the Blacksburg / Covington area
THE FARMHOUSE (1/4 mile S. on Cambria Street off of US 460 in Christiansburg; 540-382-4253) A restored, spacious 19th century farmhouse that has been turned into a bar, nightclub, restaurant and banquet hall all-in-one. Moderately expensive, but a nice excursion. Steaks, seafood, American food featured.
THE EAGLE'S NEST (in Crows, Va. on Rt. 311) If you have the time, make the drive to this out-of-the-way restaurant near Covington. A bit pricy, but worth it Sizzling steaks, yummy seafood, good wine list, generous portions. The atmosphere inside is a bit noisy, but the outside picturesque setting is wonderful. Worth a trip for the food.
Lexington
Many people consider Lexington, which houses Virginia Military Institute (est 1839) as well as Washington & Lee University (est 1804), one of the most beautiful and well-maintained small towns in all of the Commonwealth. Certainly the architecture of buildings on the two campuses provides scenery-chewing of the highest order. For gosh sakes, whatever you do, don't bad mouth Robert E. Lee within the Lexington town limits. We don't want to be responsible for what happens next.
What to do in Lexington
THEATRE AT LIME KILN (540-463-3074) One of the region's welcome musical ampitheatre stops-- during the summer the "bowl" becomes a worthy Western Va. response to places like Wolf Trap (with nowhere near the eclectic promoting vision of that vaunted venue, of course) with appearances by national and international folk, blues, jazz and country artists as well as plays and musical theater. One wishes for the day when the bookers at the Lime Kiln will go a bit farther afield in their choices of performers and events, but it's a comfortable venue. . . and whatthehellcanyouexpect from the kinda conservative Lexington area?
Historic stops in Lexington
"Stonewall" Jackson's House (at 8 E. Washington; 540-463-2552). . . Lee Chapel (on the W&L campus; 540-463-8768). . . George C. Marshall Museum and Library (on the western side of VMI campus). . . and brochures that detail self guiding tours can be had at the Lexington Visitors Center at 102 E. Washington St. / 540-463-3777.
. . . and some other parts of Virginia
This is the file wherein we place the incomplete data on Virginia spots that we will EVENTUALLY expand upon in the near future. We also hope to include information on Staunton, Williamsburg, Petersburg and other places we've omitted for the time being, as well as update and expand the listings shown. Send your suggestions and tips on clubs, music stores and interesting places and spots to P.O. Box 19, Charlottesville, Va. 22902.
Fredericksburg
One of Virginia's most interesting, historically-significant and picturesque places, Fredericksburg is halfway between Richmond and D.C. on Interstate 95, accessible from many other routes, and worth some afternoon sight-seeing. With Mary Washington College as its base, Fredericksburg, named after Frederick, Prince of Wales, has a bustling club and music scene building up. It is in a prime location!
We'll be updating and expanding this Fredericksburg entry in the near future.
Of Historical Interest
KENMORE (1201 Washington Ave.; 703-373-3381). . . RISING SUN TAVERN (1306 Caroline Street; 703-371-1494). . . JAMES MONROE MUSEUM (908 Charles St.; 703-373-8426). . .
Clubs and Music Stores
THE UNDERGROUND (106 George St.) Acoustic performers and alternative rock programmed here most nights. One of the best places to hang near the Mary Washington campus.
Mr. B's (3.5 miles south of Fredricksburg; 540-898-3873) Blues, jazz and light rock are featured at this spot.
PICKER'S SUPPLY (902 Caroline St.) Acoustic guitars and more acoustic guitars. Also accessories, music books and lessons on premises.
PIERCE MUSIC (120 Falcon St.) Fredericksburg's full line music shop, with rentals and repairs.
Harrisonburg
In addition to club life, the James Madison University campus in Harrisonburg also hosts shows in its PC BALLROOM, as well as travelling nationals in its campus auditoriums. Pretty much a ghost town during the Summer, though.
ARTFUL DODGER (47 Court Square; 540-568-3425) Regional, and even national bands, occasionally at this watering hole / cafe. This is a neat place to hang when in the area.
J & M's BAR & GRILL (1007 S. Main St.; 540-433-8537) Live music most nights-- alternative, bar bands and the like.
PLAN 9 RECORDS (in Kroger Shopping Center at 1790-96 E. Market St.; 540-434-9999) The latest, western-most addition to the 9's Virginia-based empire. Used CD's, alt-rock, etc.
ROCKINGHAM THEATRE (Look for Info in a future update) A converted cinema house, now hosting blues, folk and international acts (like Leo Kottke, Clarence "Gatemouth" Brown and Solas). Near the Downtown area.
TOWN AND CAMPUS (20 W. Water Street; 540-433-5550) JMU's long-running independent disc and vinyl store, specializing in used CDs, posters, indie-issues and 45's. One of our all-time favorite Virginia record stores-- even if the stock has thinned out a bit in the wake of corporate usurption. Less than a mile from 1-81, and near the campus.
Places to Eat
Ask for directions to THE LITTLE GRILLE.
(Tell them you heard about it from Grip Monthly and the Virginia Music Flash web page)